West Cornwall!!13

West Cornwall is the last stop between the green and pleasant isle of the UK and the ravages of the Atlantic Ocean. Both forces, pastoral and wild, tranquil and turbulent, have shaped this region into the uniquely stunning landscape it is today - a true halfway house between sheer wilderness and carefully cultivated beauty. Luckily for visitors, you can often find the perfect mix of the two without even really trying…

This fragile, almost surreal balance has attracted artists for centuries and forged the creative communities that now draw many to the area like St. Ives, home of the Tate and the Barbara Hepworth Museum. Best avoided during the crowded school holidays, this town is impossibly pretty, boasting a cerulean harbour and many a culinary and Cornish cultural delight fringing its sandy shores. For the path less travelled, make your way to Newlyn to experience the rhythms of a lively fishing port intermingled with a relaxed arts and crafts scene, or head just along the Penzance promenade to take a dip in Jubilee Pool, the UK’s largest and best preserved art deco lido. If you’d prefer the slower pace of village life, set aside some time to explore those nestled amongst the coves and crags of the Lizard Peninsula. Cadgwith and Gunwalloe are picture perfect and, if you get up early enough, you can still catch glimpses of the multicoloured fishing boats pootling out into the harbour of the former to retrieve a crab pot for dinner at the local pub later.

You’re never far from stretches of gorgeous sand and coastal bliss here and, in fact, this area boasts some of the best beachside scenery of the entire county. You’re bound to have the azure waters of Kynance Cove and Porthminster Beach on your itinerary already - and with good reason. However, ensure you leave enough time to explore the hidden inlets and mermaid pools around Penwith like Nanjizal, which makes for a great trek from nearby Porthgwarra along a stunning stretch of coast path, from which you can spot seals, basking sharks and even the distant humps of the subtropical Isles of Scilly from on a clear day. West Cornwall is also home to Gwithian and Godrevy sands, a three mile surfers’ and walkers’ paradise that is only a short drive from St. Ives and well worth dedicating a beach day to.

Of course, and as many locals would assert, the magnetism of West Cornwall lies in its strange and savage places, not just its urbane charm or pretty beaches. The Penwith Peninsula is one such magical spot. Littered with prehistoric burial sites, settlements and hillforts, this hinterland is wilderness personified and it’s well worth truncating or skipping your trip to kitschy Land’s End entirely to make the time to properly explore the tors and heaths. Take a car and the winding B3306 and be sure to stop by Mên-an-Tol, an oddly compelling Bronze Age structure that reportedly cures both infertility and rickets.

If you have the time, disposable income and stomach for an often bumpy ferry or plane ride, you need to extend your visit to West Cornwall with a trip to the Isles of Scilly, the last true pockets of civilisation - but perhaps not as you know it. This archipelago lazily spreads itself over 140 islands, each with their own distinct culture and highlights. The relatively populous St Mary’s, the largest island, is a great base for island hopping but you can easily lose yourself entirely along the Caribbean-esque stretches of sand on Bryher or the remote, winding footpaths of St. Agnes. The islands are best appreciated during the World Pilot Gig Championships, where the uniquely interwoven communities of this special place shine through at their most hospitable and welcoming.

In short, West Cornwall is not only your last chance, but one of the best too, to experience the untamed beauty, thriving arts scene and unique culture of this wonderful county.